Prolog: Altho what follows may seem to be a grand outing and something that I thoroughly enjoyed I want to make sure that my wife knows that I was miserable and suffered the whole time. I would have never gone if it weren't my duty as a Priesthood holder to magnify my calling in the young mens presidency. Therefor any mention of enjoyment in the following account was my literary license to make the reader enjoy the depiction of the hike and not an actual account of my feeling for such a repulsive activity.
6 am comes early some days and not soon enough on others. On this occasion it wasn't soon enough as I woke up at 4 am unable to sleep any more as I anxiously awaited the days events to follow. 6 am was the designated time for the Deacons, Teachers and there leaders to meet at the church followed by a swift departure to the Chimney Rock trailhead. I was excited for this hike, not only was it to be my first as the new Young mens counselor and scout master, but I had only seen Chimney Rock from the distance and couldn't wait to be able the to see it up close and personal. Remarkable everyone showed up on time, the last boy arriving at 6:03 am which was well within the limits of Mormon standard time.
After a prayer we were off. Riding with me in my subaru (which I have now officially named the "old Goat" since it doesn't go very fast but can climb up a shear rock cliff with ease) was Jacob, Daniel and Troy. We had some good conversations on sports, music and how the light of christ in indivuals is affected by the decisions we make. It took about an hour to wind are way up the Pack River road to the trail head. Upon ariving we were quick to get on the trail not only because we needed to be back at the church by 2 pm but it was cold and the only way to warm up was to get moving. The trail started by crossing the Pack River via a bridge then ascended slowly in a south westerly direction. The boys devised some walking sticks from downed tree branches to assist them on the hike. Yet despite their best efforts (or worst depending on how you look at it) all the hiking stick that were created were way to big to be affecting but would definitely build some arm muscles as the were 8 - 10 feet tall and 4 - 6 inches in diameter.
The Trail continued in the same direction for about 2 miles there it then took a big right turn and headed northwest. The farther we went the steeper the trail got. From the trail we could see glimpses of lake Pend orelle and the Pack river valley. About 3 miles in to the hike the trail basically ended into large granite slabs and we had to use cairns (piles of rocks that mark the trail for those not familiar with the term and yes it is spelled correctly) to make it up the next mile or so where the trail reappeared. From that point on the trail disappeared and reappeared as it ran through and along side giant boulder fields.
As we reached 6200' Chimney Rock first appeared briefly through the mist of clouds that had blocked our view of the surrounding peaks all morning, then as quickly as it came into view it was gone. Yet as we drew nearer to the base the clouds parted and allowed us a fully view of the beauty of not only Chimney Rock but many of the peaks that make up what is called the Seven Sisters. Most of the boys broke for lunch a couple hundred yards before the actual base deeming that they had come far enough and were tired. Jonathan (the other leader) and I were the only two to make it to the actual base and its northeast saddle. I even rock climbed a little way up the "chimney" but turned back before it got too technical, plus it was freezing cold up there. The views of the northern valley were spectacular as the clouds wisped their way through the northern peaks of the Seven Sisters. Unfortunately due to time constraints and cold, tired boys we didn't stay long and soon I found myself on my way back down the trail.
On the way down the boys had a fascination of heaving large rocks over cliffs, watching them beak into a thousand pieces. This distraction gave me time to run and bound over bolder fields and rock faces which only fueled my desire to run in the mountains even more (I have not been able to do much for two months now, as I have suffered from a string of overuse injuries that occurred as a result of my last ultra) and for once my knee/legs didn't hurt while running down hill. We finally had to put an end to the rock rolling as we need to get down to the cars. On the way down one of the boys had rubbed his "cheeks" the wrong way during the hike and had a very interesting gate for the last few miles. His slower duck like pace allowed some of the rest of us to enjoy a waterfall that was hidden from the trail. We finally arrived back at the cars shortly after 1pm. I was given the chore of taking Jacob and his brother Eric home, manly because Jonathan had to suffer through Eric's ever present ramblings on the drive up. But I am pleased to report that Eric fell asleep soon after departure and didn't wake up till I doped him off at this door step.
Overall it was an amazing hike one I would love to do again with a little more time to be able to explore some of the peaks that surround the trail, but for now it was a great experience to share with the young men of our Ward.
Well its been a few weeks since my last post and I finally feel that am starting to heal up from all the injuries I've had lately. My back and hips feel really good and the last few times I've attempted running I haven't had pain in my knee. I haven't ran a lot but I'm excited to start adding more running into my workouts. The only injury that has really bothered my lately is tendentious in my elbows and the are getting better everyday so next week watch out I'm ready to get back in the game.
This last week I found myself trying to harvest the elusive rocky mountain elk with my bow. My brother Dan and I made a valiant attempt and had many close encounters with cows and one with a spike bull but I never was presented a shot at a bull which was the sex my tag was good for. I did get a lot of hiking in probably 15-20 in three days. The mornings were beautiful and the air crisp and cool and the smell of autumn was everywhere.
Katie and I took the kids hiking this week which is always fun. The kids love being in the woods running, hiking and playing. Kalea really loves being outside even though she is only 5 months old, and the other three love finding hiking sticks and exploring the woods (under the close supervision of their parents of course). I want to see if we can plan a hike every week even if it is just a short one because being outside brings out the best in our kids.
Matthias hiking up the trail
I love this picture Mathias looks so small compared to all the trees
Running up the trail
Mommy leading the way
about two minutes after this photo was taken, a spike elk came up the draw but I wasn't offered a shot as he stayed in the thick brush.
Since I haven't been able to run do to injuries lately, I have been going crazy wanting to get out and run. To either satisfy or fuel my desire to run I have been watching all sorts of videos on different races throughout the world such as UTMB, Leadville, Pikes Peak ect... Watching these videos has inspired me to make a video of my own, about my adventures this last year as I have trained and raced ultra-marathons. Below is a little trailer of what you can expect sometime around the end of the year.
PS- it ok to laugh at me the trailer is pretty dramatic it was meant to be fun :)
It's 5:30 am, I just got done at the gym and had a little time to collect some thoughts before I have to get ready for work. I've had a lot go through my mind this last week and could probably write a book or two on some of the subjects that have perplexed my mind. Yet since I don't have time to write a book here are some of the events and thoughts I have suffered, endured and enjoyed this last week.
First off I am not invincible. Yes I know that may be striking news for some of you, it has been for me. This revelation has come slowly but has culminated over the past few weeks with injuries that continue to frustrate me. The first injury that many of you reading this are well aware of is the overuse injury to my right shin which has kept me from running since my last race. I have taken this injury not as much as a chink in the armor but more of a maintenance issue one that will be polished out with some time. Due to the lack of running in my life I have intensified my weight lifting workouts to keep me somewhat sane (or insane depending on how you look at it). For all accounts this was going well till this last Wednesday when I involuntarily decided to injury my lower back and dislocate both my hips while attempting to do a burnout set of squats. This left me face down on the floor for several minutes and then in bed at home for most of the day. I could barley walk, just rolling over in bed seemed like a insurmountable task, in other words I was quite pathetic (just ask my wife). The next day I was able to walk (sort of) but after spending most of the day on my feet at work not only did my back and hips hurt but my knees and lower legs as well. Since then I have been doing much better and started lifting again (very isolated chest, shoulders and arms) but the whole experience has given me much food for thought.
First, just how amazing our bodies are. God really knew what he was doing when he created our physical bodies. They are so amazing, just think of how they are put together and how balanced they are. All the muscles, bones and organs work together to create a body that can do so many amazing things. There really seems to be no limit to what our physical bodies can or will (think of when they are perfected) be able to do.
Second, the joy of motion. Our Bodies are meant to move, to run, jump, swim, climb and be in motion. An active body is a happy body, just look at children and how they play. My kids truly enjoy being physically active. They are so much happier and better tempered when the are outside running, jumping and climbing on everything I tell them not to climb on. When they sit around and watch a movie or play games on the computer the tend to get depressed, selfish, cranky, and are hard to deal with. One of my kids favorite activities is hiking/running in the woods. Often we go to a tail and hike up a mountain side, then the kids run all the way down laughing and smiling. When they hit the bottom of the trail they want to run back up and do it again. The greater the capacity our physical bodies have to preform these activities the more joy we have when engaged in them. That is why training or improving our physical abilities is so important it allows us to have more joy. Now I'm not saying we all need to be elite athletes, but how much more enjoyable is running when your not out of breath after ten feet or swimming when you exhausted after a few strokes. Our bodies are designed to move so lets move.
Not being able to partipate in some of the activities that I love due to injury has really brought these points to a new light for me. I long to be out on the trail and am so much happier when I participate in some type of physical activites everyday. Another thought that I will save for a latter post is the importance of nutrition. Untill them stay active, eat healthy and enjoy life!
Picturtes of the kids running and playing at Dover Bay
Recovery from Angel's Staircase has been great except one thing...
Angel's may not have been as long as Pocatello but it made up for it in elevation and ruggedness. That being said I didn't have swollen feet and the legs where barley sore the day after. In fact I was at work the next day and in the gym pounding the weights on Monday. I even lifted legs heavy on Wednesday. I didn't do any running but did some biking every day and was feeling great. That was until Saturday morning. I had woken up early to go lift legs at the gym but for whatever reason my 24hr card wouldn't let me in the door (its happened before something wrong with the computer system at the gym) so I decide that I would do a couple mile run. I drove over to the Syringa trail and started up the trail. The first 1/2 mile went great and I was feeling strong and light, then somewhere between there and the mile marker my right shin muscle (where it connects to the knee area) started hurting. It really lit up as I came back down creating not only pain there but in my right knee and hip as well; leaving me in a lot of pain by the time I made it back to the car. My diagnoses is that I have a sever case of shin splints where the muscle attaches to the knee area. I am really bummed about this because I can't run for a while and this is the same type of injury that Anton Krupicka (one of the best ultrarunners in the world) suffered from and it kept him out of racing/running for a year and a half. Hopefully mine heals much faster and is not as severe. The good news is that it only affects running not hiking or lifting (Anton was able to do a ton of hiking that kept him in grate shape). This injury puts a big question mark on the Mt. Spokane 50k. It might be smart not to even think of doing it regardless of how the shin is feeling. That realization really sucks, I really wanted to kill that course, I had a ton of motivation coming out of Angel's to train harder and really do well at Spokane. So depending on how the next few weeks go I might have to adjust some goals and concentrate on working towards something else for a while.
Mountain Ultras have a love hate relationship with those who participate in them. There are times of extreme pain and suffering where one questions their sanity for undertaking such a task and swears that they will never run another; then there are the moments of bliss as one glides down the trail completely lost in the ambiance of the mountains and Gods creations; wishing, hoping that the journey may never end.
Angel's Staircase was one helluva journey and then some. For me the journey started on Friday as my father and I loaded up his car and traveled four and a half hours west to the Methow (Met-How) Valley region of the Northern Cascades arriving at the Foggy Dew camp grounds around 6:00 pm. We set up camp and my dad made some wonderful chicken and vegetables for dinner. We Slept out under the stars and woke up about 5:30am the next morning to get ready for the day ahead of us.
Start to Foggy Dew Trail Head: 3.6 miles, 600' vert
Registration was from 6:00-6:45 with a start time of 7am. There was a short pre-race meeting just before we got underway where we were informed of how the trail was marked and that the race director had encountered a black bear with cubs the day before while setting up the second aid station. The race director also told us that he had missed judged the distance to the first ad station by .6 miles thus adding 1.2 extra miles to the race. I should have seen the real warning in that announcement, because if he couldn't get the correct mileage for the only section that was on a forest service road, how was he going to get the mileage correct on backcountry single track trails. The official start of the race was at 7:06 am as the group of about 60 runners started up the now 3.6 mile road section towards the Foggy Dew trail head. This section proved to be a great warm up as the incline wasn't too steep but still warranted a mix of 80% running and 20% hiking allowing the legs to get ready for the backcountry.
Foggy Dew to top of Angle's Staircase: 8.5 miles, 6000' vert
After about forty minutes I hit the Foggy Dew trail head. The trail was extremely dry and dusty and I was soon covered in dust from the knees down. The trail followed Foggy Dew creek up to the point where it reached Foggy Dew Falls. The falls were about 40 feet in height and were beautiful. The falls were also the location of the first aid station were two volunteers dressed as angels manned the an extremely limited aid station as rap music blared from the boom box they had packed up. The Aid station only had M&M's, potato chips, candy bars and GU gels, not quite what I expected especially after the wonderful aid stations I experienced at Pocatello in June. I filled my water bladder with 60oz of water since I was assured that the next water station was only 6 mile away and took off up the trail relying on the food I had packed. The trail then veered away from the creek and ran up and over granite ledges until flatting out a bit as I came into Merchants Basin. The basin was a lovely meadow full of wild flowers which were in full bloom and delicate blue butterflies. On the sides of the basin were rock walls that sealed in the meadow from the surrounding wilderness. The trail ran strait up the basin then zig-zaged up the peak that laid at the end of the basin known as the Angel's Stair case. The summit of the staircase offered spectacular 360 views of the Cascade mountain range it was truly awe-inspiring.
Top of Angel's Staircase to Eagle lake: 8 miles, 2000' vert
The water station according to the mileage given at the first aid station should have put it near the top of the staircase, but there was no water and I was running out fast. The trail took us down the backs side of the staircase and through a valley that rested between Old Maid mountain and Martin peak. Here I shot some videos as I ran down and through the valley that was filled with wild flowers and creeks. The water that was promised finally showed up about 4 miles farther then we had been told. By that time I had already been dry for about 20 minutes. The water station was unmanned and consisted of three 15 gallon jugs of water and a roll up table, that was it. I filled up not knowing exactly how far the next aid might be and took off down the trail towards Boiling lake and Horsehead pass. Just before I hit the lake I ran into a women and two men dressed in caveman style buckskins. the were bear foot and one of the men carried a old wooden recurve bow while the other male toted a modern-day fishing rod and reel. At this point I was wondering if the sun was getting to me and I was hallucinating, I quickly slapped myself but they were still there. As I passed them I said hi and that they responded with the same greeting. They were all in their late 20's and looked way to clean to be wackos living off the grid but what do I know except the fact that I was about 15 miles in the backcountry with three people trying to look like cavemen, kinda weird (that's an understatement). Shortly after the caveman encounter I came to Boiling lake and the start of Horsehead pass. Horsehead pass was about a 1.5 mile, 2000' ascent through boulders and shale then a 1.5 mile 1500' descent into Eagle lake. This was the point where it started to get really hot as temps rose to the low 90's and there was little to no shade leaving you baking in the sun. It was also in this section that my feet started to get pretty beat up do to the sharp rocks that made up the trail. My shoes just didn't have enough under foot protection for that kind of terrain.
Eagle Lake to Foggy Dew Falls: 16 miles, 3000' vert
The aid station at Eagle lake marked roughly the half way point and was about as well stocked as the first aid station (meaning not very well). Here I downed a couple of gels (chocolate mint and Vanilla bean both tasted really good) and packed some for the road as I was told the next water was 6 miles away and the next aid (food) was 10. The next 6 miles I was in a grove as I crushed this downhill section covering 6 miles in under 40 minutes. But at the end of the 6 miles what was suppose to be a water only station was an aid station. I was a little confused and asked how far it was to next water and I was told 6 miles. So I filled up with 60oz of water and started towards the next aid station. After descending about a half a mile the trail started to ascend again. I climbed about 1500' in two to three miles and then started descending again. At this point I figured I was 3 or so miles away from the next aid and I was doing fine on water. After descending about a half mile the trail started to climb again which was startling because according to the maps it should have been a strait descent into the next aid. Well about another three mile and 1500' of vert I finally started my descent into the last aid station complete out of water and at least three to four mile to go to water. I tried to run to the aid but the lack of water and the heat left my legs unable to run and throbbing in pain from the days efforts. It was at this point were I really questioned why was I doing this, why would I put myself through so much pain and suffering? why did I decide to run ultras, especially ones in the remote mountain locations? I wanted the pain to end but do to the nature of this race the only way it could end is if I finished or died and the later was not an option. So I grit my teeth and dragged my feet forward. I finally reached the aid station covering 10 mile instead of 6. I sat down chugged some water, electrolytes and gels and started walking down the trail.
Foggy Dew Falls to the Finish: 6.5 miles all downhill, thank goodness
It took about fifteen minutes for my legs to start working again. My dad was waiting for me where the trail hits the road again and the start of the last 3.6 miles. We talked briefly and my dad got in the car and I started jogging down the road. Dad pulled up beside me and rolled down the window. We talked for the next 2 miles about the race and his experience hiking to Merchants Basin, taking pictures, a nap and all the people he got to meet as they came down the trail. It was such a blessing to have him there pacing me for those last few miles cause I was in bad shape; my legs and feet were killing me but having dad to talk to took my mind off some of the pain. With a little over a mile and a half to go a runner came charging down the hill behind me and I had to accelerate quite a bit to keep up. I wasn't going to let him pass me, I hadn't been passed by anyone for over half the race and wasn't going to let it happen now. It was fine by me if we finished together, I just didn't want to be passed. He slowed down after a quarter mile as I kept the same pace, he caught back up with me again but was unable to maintain the nearly 6 min mile pace we were at. He faded back and my dad pulled up besides me again. My legs hurt so bad, but I just kept the pace knowing that the finish was almost insight. I ran into the finish line, 10 hours and 46 minutes after we started. The race director greeted me and told me how to get to the creek if I wanted to wash off in the cold water. That sounded great so my dad and I headed down to the creek. It was ice cold and felt oh so good. Other racers were down at the creek and we compared notes on the race. We all agreed that it was longer then advertised and that the aid stations were way to far apart and not where the were suppose to be. One racers also saw the cavemen and woman so I really wasn't hallucinating. All in all, despite the pain and suffering I went through I enjoyed the race. The scenery was magnificent the journey hard and rugged and in the end it was all worth it.
The Days totals: 42.6 miles, 11600' vert
Special thanks to my wife and kids whom I was away from for this race. I missed you guys and wish you could have been a part of this one like Pocatello. You keep me going when the going gets tough, I love you. Also to my Dad who took the time to drive me there and back, paced me towards the end and enjoyed some father and son time, it had been a long over due.
Pictures provided to you be Tevis "the elder" and Tevis "the younger"
Me just before the start of the race. See I'm still smiling which means I was totally ignorant of what laid in store for me!
And there off. There were about 60 people who started but only 35 would finish.
Looking down at Foggy Dew Creek
Foggy Dew Falls
the trees have wings
The angels at the first and last aid station
Trail heading up to Merchants Basin
Looking back down the trail at one of the 35k racers
Entering Merchants Basin
The Trail ran through the grass Basin sandwich between rock peaks.
Merchants Basin from the top of Angel's Staircase
Panorama from the top of Angel's Staircase looking west
